Idyllwild to Big Bear

Miles 180-266

These have been the most beautiful miles yet. It was so relaxing to be in Idlyllwild, mainly due to the abundance of trees and cool air, but also just to be in the care of a fellow thru-hikers grandparents. I got to sleep in a bed for two nights, treated to a meal out, and got a delicious to-go bag of cheese and fresh veggies. That was some amazing trail magic. The support from non-hikers in some passing areas/towns has been tremendous. If you have ever run a race, it's similar to the strangers cheering you on the side lines. Here they are just more spread out, but they give you the same energy.

Yesterday me and Magic Mullet climbed San Jacinto Peak, the second tallest in Southern California. The views from the top were truly incredible. To the North is the San Gorgonio Wilderness and Big Bear, my destination. To the East is Palm Springs, Indio, and their suburbs 9,000ft below. To the West there was a haze of smoke from the San Diego wildfires.

On top of San Jacinto Peak.

The decent off this peak took about a full 24 hours, and the vegetation and weather changed dramatically with the drastic change in elevation.

The sunrise above the clouds.

At the bottom of the massive decent the wind was howling, turning the sand into little needles as they hit my skin. So I pushed on even faster, because there was refuge nearby thanks to some amazing trail angels named Ziggy and the Bear.  These people have opened up their home to any thru hiker passing by.  There whole backyard has been converted into a hiker paradise.  The ground is completely carpeted to protect hikers often tender feet, there are foot baths, coffee, fresh fruit,  ice cream, apple pie, and even half a dozen porta-pottys for hikers.  All they want in return is a small donation, and a photo of each hiker which they number and catalog. I am number 1012 for this year. This makes me think that there are probably 1100 thru hikers this year.  Without the generosity of people like this, such a hike wouldn't be possible for most.


I left the hiker haven that afternoon and headed to Whitewater Wildlife Refuge. The views kept coming.

The sunset over whitewater wash.

Unfortunatley, despite the flush toilets and picnic benches, the campsite turned terrible really quick. This was actually the first time I set up my tarp, but it didn't help. I woke up to a torrential down pour, which was somehow getting under my tarp despite its very low pitch. I even used my umbrella to cover up one main entrance, but my down bag, jacket and pants all got soaked. Then all of a sudden most of the rain stopped, and I heard a voice with a German accent say, "my foot is on the sprinkler!" A slew of curses streamed out of my mouth. I gave the savior my water bladder to cover one sprinkler, then I ran out of the tarp to cover two other sprinkler heads with my upside down shoes. I moved my wet sleeping bag to under the stone patio, were I attempted to sleep the rest of the night. No more front-country camping for me!

My campsite from hell. You can see the water marks and where I covered the sprinklers.

(~Mile 230)

Right now I'm taking a short break in the shade, during my hike up Mission Creek. This is another one of the many moments when this feels impossible. Just as implausible as learning to fly, it seems like I can't do this. I miss Michelle so much, that spending the next four months doing this, alone, without her, sounds terrible.

But then again I'm not alone, well at least not always, and there is so much to look forward to. This is day ten, and I've seen several thru hikers a day since day four. The camaraderie is great, but it's not quite filling the gap.

However, I can't quit. No matter how tempting. I've presented myself with this amazing opportunity, that will never happen again. There is no coming back if I leave, why would I? There are so many things I want to do in my life, so I generally don't like to repeat experiences. I have until October. This isn't much time in the grand sceme of things, so why should I not take advantage of this trail?

This makes me feel better. I find that I'm walking myself through the same rational somewhat regularly out here, like a CD on repeat whenever I'm feeling low.

Less than 40 miles to Big Bear. Time to take a break from this damned desert.

In Big Bear:

The past two days Have been neros ( near zero mile days) in my opinion, at 14 miles each day. This is my second and last night in the Big Bear Hostel. It has been rejuvenating despite not getting great sleep. I think I'm getting too used to camping now so beds aren't as comfortable. So strange as it's only been12 days.

Getting snowed on by Onyx Summit, near mile 251.

Yesterday me and Magic Mullet hitched off of the top of a mountain pass because it was snowing and lightning was getting too close for comfort. Its amazing that the day before I was hot, sweating through the desert. Today we got a ride back up to the same pass and hiked back into town without all of our backpacking gear. With barely anything in our packs we made 14 miles in only four hours. The lack of weight felt really freeing.

We also passed these Grizzly Bears that were caged in the woods. Apparently these animals were used in movies, and now they're in what looks like prison. It sucks to see such a big animal in such a small cage, especially when they are native to California, yet don't exist here anymore.

A caged Grizzly Bear.

Time to hit the trail again. 40 more miles until I get to soak in Deep Creek Hot Springs!